Life’s a Beach – With Stories and Scores
August 6, 2009
Photo Source:atlanticpanic.com
One of the biggest attractions of the mid-cape for me is the fact that it boasts so many visitors from Southwest Boston. It seems that no matter where you are in the Cape’s muscle, you will almost certainly run into friends, neighbors, family, and alums from West Roxbury, Roslindale, JP, and Hyde Park.
If Quincy and Weymouth are the Irish Riviera, then certainly Yarmouth and Dennis could be the Parkway Peninsula.
[I'll never understand why Roche Bros. chose Mashpee for their Cape store. It seems to me that if Pat and Bud built a store around exit 8, they'd have a guaranteed client base already built-in.]
I recently spent a week’s vacation staying at my family’s cottage in South Yarmouth (alas – the great Parkway divide continues: many WR friends settle in Dennis whereas we Rozzie Rats opt for Yarmouth).
I had endeavored to spend each day at a local beach with the hope of finding the perfect Cape shore, but Mother Nature cut that enterprise short. Still, I spent quality time at four markedly different beaches shall present my findings here:
Parker’s River Beach – South Shore Drive at Pine Grove Road, South Yarmouth
Photo source: Yarmouth.ma.us
It’s difficult for me to offer an objective assessment of Parker’s River Beach, as it’s been my local beach for the last 25 years. Familiarity and routine definitely count for something (so sayeth one of the remaining patients of Health Stop). Just as former Centre Street watering-hole PJ Kelliher’s will always claim a spot in my heart, so too does this beach on South Shore Drive.
While it may not be the nicest looking beach (seagulls, and to a lesser extent litter, abound) and the lack of space can be quite limiting (your beach chair will most assuredly be side by side with your neighbor’s on any given 90+ degree day), the amenities at PRB are second to none. Boasting an excellent (if pricey) concession stand, modern playground (think of Billings Playground when it first opened) and an outside shower/rest room facility; Parker’s River is a perfect destination for families. The waves aren’t too spectacular and the seaweed is thick, however the water is generally warmer and the slope of the shore allows for ample opportunities for all levels of swimmers.
If you don’t like crowds, then this isn’t the beach for you. But if you want to spend a long day at a beach with almost resort like services, then lay your blanket out at Parker’s River.
Overall score: 85
Coast Guard Beach – National Seashore, Nauset
Photo source: outercoast.com
While not technically part of the mid-cape, Coast Guard Beach remains my favorite beach on Cape Cod.
The great charm of Coast Guard stems from its protection as a landmark as part of the National Seashore. Spending time on Coast Guard reminds me of what cape beaches must’ve been like 400 years ago. It’s meticulously clean, expansive, and serene. Being there, you become part of the true beach environment.
In order to get to Coast Guard, you have park at their lot and board an open bus to the shore. You’ll be dropped off at a lighthouse that offers full shower and restroom facilities. From there, it’s a quick walk through dunes that will lead you to a spectacular beach.
The huge waves crashing against the shore offer perhaps the best bodysurfing on cape. The riptide can be dangerous: young kids and inexperienced swimmers might want to remain landlubbers. But if you’re able, a swim in the treacherous and cold waters can be magical. Last week, I swam with a seal who provided the floor shore for the crowds.
Overall score: 95
South Middle Beach – South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth
Photo source: yarmouth.ma.us
If you want a nicer looking beach than Parker’s River, South Middle may be the one for you. Known as Resident’s beach (how snooty), South Middle is about a quarter of a mile down the street from Parker’s. Its entrance is masked by the woods, which offers beach goers a welcome buffer between a busy parking lot and the sand.
The beach is cleaner and wider than most along the strip, but otherwise it remains fairly non-descript.
If you want a nice quiet beach without fuss or muss, then head over to South Middle. It offers an ideal setting for simply reading a good book. Otherwise, it’s fairly banal.
Overall score: 70
Howes Street Beach – Howes Street at Seaside Ave (off of Corporation Rd)
If Corporation beach is filled to capacity, mosey over a block or two to this hidden gem.
Howes Street Beach is an excellent and quiet alternative to some of the bigger and more popular locales in Dennis. It’s immaculately clean and boasts lagoon like swimming (warm water, little seaweed). A huge dune greets guests and ample space is available.
Howes is a great beach for families and those looking for a less hectic beach experience.
However, like South Middle in Yarmouth, there is little else offered to the beachgoer. There’s no playground, restroom facility or snack shack.
Overall score: 75
There you have it. The cape has 152 beaches (16 in Yarmouth, 17 in Dennis). Those are four. What am I missing? And where should I head next?
Matt O’Malley is a regular contributor and a big booster of all things Parkway. Matt shares his thoughts on a wide range of topics on his personal blog.
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Matt:
I am a year round resident of Yarmouth and Parker’s River Beach is my go to beach every Saturday (yeah, me & 1000 of my closest friends)…very crowded. Love the convenience of the restrooms & snack bar.
1. Coast Guard Beach
2. Mayflower Beach, Dennis
And imagine that people think people from this area are parochial. The mid cape’s a peninsula? Brush up on your geography.
“Lower” or the more fashionable “Outer” Cape is where it’s at. First Encounter, Bee’s River, Thumpertown on the Bayside. Coast Guard and Nauset Light on CCNSS. Great Pond in the Middle. Growing list of Parkway residents know.